Cabled mittens with pattern!!

My mittens exploded! I was really sad about it until I found a huge ball of crazy thick yarn right before the holidays. When I finally got around to trying to make myself some mittens, it turned into an ordeal because my yarn was so fat that I couldn't find a pattern that worked, so I finally gave up and made my own pattern. Here it is in case you find yourself in a similar predicament: 

Cozy Cabled Mittens

Materials:

•Cable needle OR spare dpn in gauge of main needles

•US 10 / 6.0 mm dpn (4 needles) or 2 sets of circular needles

•Tapestry needle

•“Super Bulky” (weight 6-8) yarn in colour of choice (approximately 400 g)

Abbreviations:

•K - knit

•P - perl

•k2tog – knit 2 together

•sl1,k, psso – slip 1 stitch onto working needle, knit one, then pass slipped stitch back over newly-worked stitch.

To make body of mitten:

1. CO 28 stitches in preferred method (I use long-tail cast on, but anything  with a bit of give would work).

2. Mark first stitch, then work k2 p2 ribbing across row. Repeat until 14 rows have been completed or until cuff has reached desired length (28 st).

3. Knit across for 2 rows. If desired, place marker at halfway point to delineate front and back of mitten.

4. K14. Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front. K3. K3 from cable needle.  K2. Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front. K3. K3 from cable needle.

5. Knit across for 5 rows.

6. Repeat steps 4 & 5 twice (i.e. until you have completed a total of 3 cables and are set to start a fourth).

7. a) For RIGHT MITTEN: K4.  Using scrap yarn of the same weight, K4.  Leave a long tail (5 cm) across stitches* and K6.  Move to 7c).

  b) For LEFT MITTEN: K6.  Using scrap yarn of the same weight, K4.  Leave a long tail (5 cm) across stitches* and K4.  Move to 7c).

  c) Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front. K3. K3 from cable needle.  K2. Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front. K3. K3 from cable needle.

8. Knit across for 5 rows.

9. Repeat steps 4 & 5 two twice. You should have a total of 6 cables completed.

10. Try on the mitten to check for size (it will be a bit tight because the thumb has not been completed). It should be just a centimetre or so shorter than your tallest finger. If not, K around until desired length is reached.

11. K2tog, K10, sl1, k1, psso, K2tog, K10, sl1, k1, psso (24 st).

12. K24.

13. K2tog, K8, sl1, k1, psso, K2tog, K8, sl1, k1, psso (20 st).

14. K2tog, K6, sl1, k1, psso, K2tog, K6, sl1, k1, psso (16 st).

15. K2tog, K4, sl1, k1, psso, K2tog, K4, sl1, k1, psso (12st).

16. K2tog, K2, sl1, k1, psso, K2tog, K2, sl1, k1, psso (8 st).

17. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread yarn through remaining stitches, then bind off and weave in.

* If you prefer, you can just cut the yarn at this stage rather than leaving a long tail. I prefer leaving a long loop because I find it easier to adjust the tension this way, but it’s fine to cut it as long as you leave enough on each side to weave in later.

To make thumb:

1.Carefully remove scrap yarn from step 7.  You should be left with 8 loose stitches (4 above and 4 at the level of the yarn). Pick up these stitches and pick up 3 stitches on each side of thumb gusset. Place marker at beginning of row (first stitch on underside works well) (14 st).

2. K14. Repeat for 12 rows or until thumb has reached desired length (should be less than 1 cm from tip of thumb).

3. K2tog, K3, sl1, k1, psso, K2tog, K3, sl1, k1, psso (10 st).

4. K10.

5. K2tog, K11, sl1, k1, psso, K2tog, K1, sl1, k1, psso (6 st).

6. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Thread yarn through remaining stitches, then bind off and weave in.

7. Cut loop from behind gusset (if you left it) and weave in.